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Are you buying a new gun dog?
Don’t forget to cost in the price of chewed boots, bags and coats when working out what to pay for a puppy!
By Tony Price
Thursday, 21 June 2007
So you've decided to get a new gun dog? Read this checklist of things to consider before parting with your cash.
That's it then, sorted! You've decided you've got enough spare time (and money) to buy a new gun dog - maybe even your first.
One thing that never ceases to amaze me is the number of people who decide they want something different, and then find afterwards they're disappointed with the 'trainability' and working ability of their chosen breed.
If we look at it from a common sense point of view there's a reason why working labradors, working springer spaniels and working cocker spaniels are the three most popular gundog breeds. It's simple, these breeds are the easiest to train and have the aptitude to produce consistently good work in the shooting field.
It's worth noting that some parties in the shooting press are currently trying to advocate the crossing of show with working lines. In their opinion this would improve the looks of our modern working breeds. My advice is not to consider any Spaniel puppy with show blood in its lines.
With working Labradors, however, this isn't such a problem. A small amount of show blood in them won't do much harm, although I prefer to have a 100% working pedigree. If you stick to this basic advice you'll find the odds are more in your favour of achieving a good working companion.
If reassurance is needed, try comparing the dogs in old photographs of field trials to pictures of modern spaniels working today - you won't really see much of a difference.
Which breed?
Prospective customers often ask me whether they should have a spaniel or a Labrador. Their dilemma often arises from the fact that although they actually want a spaniel, their friends are advising then to have a Labrador.
My advice here is simple. Buy the breed you really want. This way you'll be far more likely to put in the work and effort needed in the dog's training, and you'll also be more willing to overlook any small misdemeanours.
If you opt for a breed simply because that's what someone said you ought to have, every time the poor dog makes a mistake you'll be thinking 'if I had the breed I really wanted it wouldn't have done that!'
Selecting a reputable breeder
I'm still puzzled by the attitude of some purchasers concerning the breeding and rearing of puppies. There's a common school of thought that if somebody is an amateur, breeding in their back garden, then the puppies they produce will be better than those from a professional establishment.
I can't really work this one out.
Would those same purchasers get a bricklayer to mend their plumbing, or a carpenter to repair their washing machine? My advice is to spend time seeking a professional establishment with a good reputation - and be prepared to have your name placed on a waiting list until the puppy is available.
Word of mouth and personal recommendations are probably the best ways to find a good breeder. Licensed breeders are actually few and far between - despite the fact that the letter of the law states any person advertising puppies for financial gain should be licensed.
The Kennel Club is generally a poor port of call because they don't differentiate between working or show dogs. In my
experience they're also willing to recommend anyone whether they're licensed or not.
Also I would point out that the Kennel Club do not police the breeding of dogs whatsoever and are perfectly willing to register litters of pups at less than yearly intervals from any one bitch - despite the law stating that no bitch should have puppies more than once every 12 months.
If you decide to approach somebody from an advertisement the seller should be perfectly willing for you to go and see their premises before you make any purchase. When you visit check to see how clean and tidy the dog's accommodation is and if the dogs seem happy and contented. Remember, if you're not happy with the condition of any puppies, don't feel sorry for them and purchase one out of pity - unfortunately there's a rogue element of breeders that use this ploy to get their customers.
When to buy
This has always been a contentious matter, so here are a couple of items to think about. Obviously if you've booked a puppy from a particular line or breeder, you simply get the puppy when it's available.
However, if you have a choice over timing it's often worth working backwards from the shooting season. In my opinion very few dogs are ready to be taken into the shooting field at less than 18-months old. So, if you work back from September this means it being born December through to January.
Another aspect to look at, if you're a busy person with limited time after work for training, is that you really need the dog to be at least six-months old at the beginning of the summer. This way you've got the lighter evenings to start the continuous training regime. In this case the puppy would need to be born in October through to November.
As you can see, there are variables that need to be considered, tailored to your individual needs, before choosing when to purchase your new puppy.
Choosing your puppy
If you decided to purchase from a reputable breeder you may find that you don't have a great choice as to which puppy you have from a particular litter. Sometimes you may find that the breeder requires a small deposit - to be paid within the first week of the puppy's birth. We find a lot of people will choose their puppy on colouration at this age.
A responsible breeder will have guided you into selecting from a litter that they think will have the most suitable temperament for you. If you are able to choose your puppy at eight-weeks or older, I would advise you to try and select the 'middle of the road' puppy - in other words, neither the most timid nor the boldest.
It's also worth trying to find out if the puppy had been cleaned, fed or played with shortly before you viewed. Without knowing this it's possible to get a false impression. I say this because the boldest dog in the litter may well have done quite a bit of playing and exercising just moments before you get to see it. The fact that it's now laying fast asleep at the back of the run might give you the totally wrong idea of the puppy.
If you're not sure it always helps to ask the breeder for their advice. They should have some idea of the individual characters of the puppies.
EXPERT HELP
Tony can be contacted at Tawnyhill Gundogs. Telephone 01795 886046, or check out his website at: www.tawnyhillgundogs.co.uk
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